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Name: James
Gender: Male


Interests: Eating everything good and bad for me, traveling, triathlon training, passionately pursuing the seemingly impossible


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Member Since: 5/26/2006
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Wednesday, August 29, 2007

July 27, 2007

I just got back from a 3day trip to Zhuhai for a little retreat getaway with my Guangzhou friends. All in all there were about 15 of us, I never did really fo a formal count… but I know there were A LOT of people whenever we went out to eat together. Since I’m on the road still I can’t upload pictures yet but imagine a garden-like coastal city with blue skies, swaying palm trees, lots of greenery and the South China Sea as far as the eye can see. So far on my trip, ZhuHai has to be the most relaxing place I’ve been to. ZhuHai only has about 400,000 people compared to the LA sized cities of Guangzhou and Shenzen which are the other huge ecomonic powerhouses in the Pearl River Delta region. ZH was also designated a special economic zone in China since it’s located right next to Macau and it’s proximity to other key cities. There’s not much to do except take a stroll through the city, walk along the scenic waterfront, window shop at the local stores and of course there is no shortage of fantastic restaurants where some of the best tasting and freshest Cantonese foods can be had. I think our food bill for each of our meals to feed our small army was about 220 RMB or $28 USD! The strength of the USD and the exchange rate is dropping like a rock and it’s costing me more money to be here. I should convert my cash into RMB since it’s just going to continue since the Chinese economy shows no signs of slowing down and the US is having it’s own issues.

I got to Zhuhai on Wednesday and the first thing I did was go to the local Public Security Bureau to go about getting my visa. I got to the office 5 minutes before lunch and they close the office from 12pm to 2:30 for lunch and the guy was in no hurry to help me. He said that I can’t get my visa there since my paperwork was from Beijing. I did my best to pursuade him otherwise but it’s too complicated of a process to do when the guy just wanted to go to lunch. So I did the same… I met back up with my friends and had lunch and went back to the PSB at 3pm where I had more time to plead my case. Still no luck but I did talk to a lady who was quite helpful and she said that I can wait till I get back to BJ since I fell under their 30day regulation period. I think all will be fine and I’m not too worried at all, we’ll see what happens when I get to BJ in two weeks.

Since I had a map and no plans for the rest of the afternoon, instead of taking the easy “hand the hotel business card to the taxi driver” way home, I decided to be more daring and take one of the local busses. I found the local bus station and there was one bus that made it’s way through the city to the “PCH” road along the coast and then back towards the hotel. Why not take it? It should be interesting to try at least. There are two busses, one with AC and one without. The one with AC is 2.5 RMB (33cents) and the one without is 1.5 RMB (20cents.) I decided that it was well worth the extra 13 cents to ride with the AC of course! Map in hand, I’d compare the signs at the bus stop with the characters on my map just to keep track of where I was. It was a cheap tour through big shopping areas and then along the coast which was a scenic sight to see in itself. Eventually I got off at the Port where you can take the ferry to Macau or Hong Kong. There I watched the travellers come and go and saw an old grandmother reunited with her family and grandchild.  She looked sooo happy and kept patting the little girl on the head and smiling. The little girl took old grandma’s hand, walked with her and was smiling from ear to ear herself.

The waterfront has amazing views of the bay and it reminded me a lot like Chicago’s waterfront along Lake Michigan where there is a pedestrian walk and where people just sit or walk and enjoy the scenery. You can clearly see tall buildings across the water and the magnificent Zhuhai bridge in the distance which link Macau and mainland China. Macau is the Las Vegas of the Pacific Rim and is growing exponentially every year. I also could see the unmistakable Wynn Casino. I went there last year and it’s just like the one in Vegas inside and out. The locals need a special visa to cross the border into Macau. It’s not too difficult to get but you do have to apply. Ordinarliy I’d be ok to go over too but I can’t this time (No visa). So I’m resigned to look across the water and admire the bright city lights like everyone else. 

What we did do was rent tandem bicycles and ride along the waterfront which is fun in itself trying to dodge Chinese locals and tourists. The bikes aren’t top of the line by any means and it’s a challenge to keep the bike moving even straight at times.  We also spent the evening listening to the local street performers doing their song and dance for money just like they do in Santa Monica at the 3rd Street Promenade. Families with kids and couples were out enjoying the night scenery and refreshing winds.

Last night on an after dinner walk, we ran into another one of those community dances that I mentioned in my last post. This time 50 people or so were in a big circle doing some simple dance that looked like a lot of fun. After watching for a few minutes, I decided to join in the big circle with them. The dance was a series of about 5 different movements moving forward and back, side to side, with arms up and down. Sort of like a Chinese electric slide. The song was from Tibet and we were doing a popular Tibetan dance! Once again I wish I had brought my video camera. =) I think it’s great that people get out of their houses and get some exercise after dinner. What a great way to chill with your neighbors each night.

Zhuhai was named to one of the top 40 tourist destination in China and I’m glad that I got a chance to go. I should keep track and try to make it to all 40 or at least begin my own list of places to go… tomorrow I hit the road again out to an area on the south eastern part of China. It’s also a coastal city but not as touristy as Zhuhai. I’ll probably be out of email touch for two weeks but I’ll post again when I get back to Beijing in mid August. Take care everyone and I hope you’re doing well!

 

July 23, 2007

The food bug finally caught up to me. After 3 previous trips to China and the last two weeks with no ill effects, I finally met my match in a seemingly harmless joo pai (pork chop) and a bad case of indigestion. Yes, I knew that I’d have to be careful especially when it comes to foods like pork. Unfortunately my ironwill doesn’t come with an ironstomach. I knew I wanted to rest but I didn’t think it would mean laying in my hotel bed for two days watching tv, reading a bit and sleeping. Not necessarily bad things at all, but I wish I could have been at least a little more comfortable. My last real meal was that pork chop lunch on Saturday (it’s late monday night now). That same afternoon I took the bus back into SZ where I met up for dinner with Lily and Naomi (both Wall Street directors in SZ that Joyce introduced me to). I was already feeling a bit funky on the way to the restaurant but once we sat down I wasn’t feeling too hot. Then the food was brought out to the table and it was an oh-so delicious looking bonafide Cantonese meal. The worst part was that I couldn’t have any of it! I explained to my new friends that this was torture in that usually I’m chowing down on all kinds of food, even more so when it looked this good. All I had was a few spoonfuls of the soup… eventually I couldn’t even stay for the whole meal and just excused myself and took a taxi home to sleep my stomach pains off.  

I came back to GZ today and I’m safely in the confines of C & Q’s house. It’s always an adventure when I travel on my own since half the excitement is just getting to my final destination. First I had to figure out how to buy a train ticket. I waited in a line with others who were buying tickets but when I got to the front of the line, the lady told me that I was in the wrong line and pointed me in the right direction. Turns out I was in the “long distance” train area and there was a special GZ bound area in the train station. Then I started paying more attention to the Chinese characters and I remembered the ones for GZ East and found the right line.  I learn something new everyday. Then I had to take a local No. 122 bus from the train station to a bus stop where Q said she’d meet me. She said to get off at the first stop after the long bridge… I sat in the first seat next to the driver so I wouldn’t miss the stop. The driver didn’t look too friendly so I didn’t even bother to use the little Chinese I know to ask him where I needed to get off.

Fortunately, all worked out like it was supposed to and Q was there to meet me. Mission accomplished! =))) Later they went out and bought me some chinese medicine which seems to be helping. I also learned how to say Sprite in chinese… “szway bi.” That also is good to soothe my gastronomically challenged tummy.

Q and I took a walk after dinner at the local store and we looked at electronic chinese-english dictionaries. The store clerk looked a little puzzled and asked why a chinese guy didn’t already know how to speak chinese. I get that a lot here… Judy and I were in a taxi in the backseat speaking English to each other and Esther was in the front seat talking to the driver in her perfect local mandarin. He asked why we were speaking English when we looked Chinese and she told him that we were studying english and we just wanted to practice… =))).

At the same store, outside on the basketball court where guys were playing basketball when we went into the store was now turned into a neighborhood ballroom dance floor when we came out. There were loud speakers set up blaring some latin music and there were about 50+ people dancing and many more watching. That was kind of interesting since the Chinese love their singing and dancing.  What a perfect way to spend a hot summer night in a very local neighborhood. I wish I had my video camera…. I’m sure they do this every night so maybe if I’m around tomorrow I’ll go back.

Also today I spoke to Joyce in Beijing, she said that I missed one of the Chinese National basketball team members come into Wall Street. I think it was Yin Jianlian who was drafted by the NBA team Milwaukee Bucks. She said he was so tall that his head nearly hit the ceiling. I wish I could have been there to get a picture! It turns out that he was near the center doing a promotion and needed to make copy of an ID and he came into the center.  Oh well, maybe next time. Joyce also told me to eat more yogurt since it is good for me and it helps ward off the food illnesses better. I heard that before but now I know better…

These are just some of the things that I learned recently… I’m sure there will be lots more to come and I’ll be happy to share them here…

On the move…

The one week vision trip that I came down to Guangzhou ended yesterday. I said my goodbyes to Michael, Judy, George (all from NewSong), Pauline (a Pstr from Thailand), Chuck and Queenie (our local hosts). There also was Esther, Angel, and Grace and a few others (all locals with incredible testimonies) that were with us earlier but left earlier. For some, it’ll be awhile before I see them again, but for Michael, Chuck and Queenie and their local staff, I’ll be seeing them again soon. Michael comes out to China on business regularly and C & Q live in GZ but are going back to Los Angeles for a few months. We ended our time together over a great dimsum meal in Shenzen. One of the things I love about China is the food, both in quality and price. We had dimsum for 8 people and we had more than enough food and it came only to less than $2 USD a person. Now I know why people from Hong Kong come over the border just to eat since the same meal can cost up to 10x more in HK. It’s funny, Shenzen is on the border to HK and people say, I’m going over to HK like it’s a walk down the street. It’s not quite as easy as that, but it’s only a short 30 min bus ride away or even quicker by train.

This trip has been very enlightening for me and I have seen and met people that I would never have been able to meet on my own. Chuck and his wife have established a lot of connections with factories in this Southern China region and have done incredible things with their work and passion. This week I learned that it’s not about how much one has that matters. It’s about what we can do with the little that we have. From that posture we are then able to do great things in serving and caring for others.

For example, we went to an electronics factory on Thursday that is an OEM (original equipment supplier) manufacturer for Samsung. The factory employs about 6,000 workers and makes CD and DVD players and other electronics items. A very special lady runs a small medical clinic to help out the factory workers with general treatment, the bigger emergency stuff gets handled at the hospital. She’s been there about 4 years and chooses to use her skills to serve at the factory and help others who don’t have a whole lot to most people. We think that at one time there were about 1,000 other Ch-tians at the factory. It’s difficult to know for sure since workers are very migratory and there are no open churces and opportunities for most people to gather.

From the outside the clinic doesn’t look like much, there’s two rooms with a bed each, a couple medicine cabinets and a few office desks for the admin. What is special about the clinic is that it is run with Chris-ian values and it allows her to serve those with very little. The decor is very simple with a few pictures on the wall here and there, but they’re not just any pictures. What is interesting is that they all have spiritual messages.  (See the pictures with the Ofoto link.) She humbly serves with a joyful heart and uses what little she has to provide for the physical, emotional and spiritual health of each person to the best ability that she can.  She even saw a need to provide counseling help in addition to the medical side so she’s reading books on counseling on her own. The toy factory that we visited earlier is the grand daddy of all factories with facilities and services that are unparelled. Every factory should be like that one, however that’s not the case. Most factories like the electronics factory are simpler, smaller, not as clean and not as modernized.  It’s an interesting comparision though.

Earlier in the week we went hiking at a nearby park to the top of a mountain which has great views of Guangzhou city below. We decided to walk up the hill in the heat rather than taking the gondola ride up. However, we took the easy way out and got the ride down.

From there we went to an older part of Guangzhou where the streets are lined with old buildings and lots of outdoor shopping. Nearby we took a stroll through an outdoor market where we saw all kinds of animals and goods for sale. Later in the evening we took a scenic cruise down the Pearl river through the heart of GZ. Sitting out on the top deck of the boat chatting with my friends and seeing the beautiful lights and architecture of the city was pretty amazing. We’re in China! It’s still hard to believe.

After the trip ended, my friend, George who I worked at RBF with came to Shenzen to pick me up and then we came back to his apartment which is about a 45 min train ride away. He lives in TsanPing which is a lot smaller city than GZ and SZ. It’s a nice change of pace where things are still old school with people just living life. The big thing for us was to go into the town center and get a simple meal and people watch. There’s not a whole lot to do compared with the big cities, but that’s what makes places like these special.

This was a good time to catch up with George and we talked about engineering stuff and the China way here and we had a lot of interesting perspectives and stories to share. It’s also good since I can catch up on internet stuff, relax and simply wash my clothes. It’s such a small world when I come to a place like this and talk with somebody I knew in OC at a local restaurant where we’re the only ones speaking English. It truly gives me perspective on things.

From here, I’m taking the bus back into Shenzen on my own and then meet up with another person who I haven’t met yet. She is a friend of Joyce’s and is working at the local Wall Street center in Shenzen. We’ll have dinner tonight and then I’ll probably tour the next few days on my own and then eventually head back to GZ to catch a 2 hr flight on to my next M destination in WZ. I have a week in front of me and I have no plans… I still have to figure out how to get my China visa though somehow. I’m worried that the office will tell me I have to leave China (go to HK which is the closest and then reapply for a visa there and come back in). I’m worried that if I leave then I won’t be able to get back in for who knows how long. People say all kind of stuff to get you on your way and things always change depending on who you talk to. It’s the most frustrating part of being here, but I call it the China way. I’m learning how to deal with it. I can see how people will do anything BUT follow the “rules” since the rules are pretty ambiguous and frustrating to understand, even for the locals where there are forms to fill out just to stand in lines to get other forms.  So for now, I’m in China, undocumented in a way, but I don’t want to leave cuz I might not be able to come back in. So for the time being I’m just another asian face in a land of 1.3 billion people. Funny huh?

Pictures from Week Two:

http://www.kodakgallery.com/ShareLandingSignin.jsp?Uc=8zt4ao9l.aktv7h01&Uy=-7yxg1s&Upost_signin=Slideshow.jsp%3Fmode%3Dfromshare&Ux=0

 

July 19, 2007

Made in China…

On the 3 hour plane ride to Guangzhou, I had time to think about everything I had to do to get here. Somehow I know that there is some good to come out of it… the China way is definitely an art that takes a lifetime to master. It takes foreigners living here, years to figure out sometimes and for some reason I experienced it within my first week. My friend says I was on the crash course for advanced students and that I definitely am called to be here. If anybody ever loses a passport in BJ, I’m the guy to call now! Maybe that’s a good thing and can save somebody some time and heartache in the future. Either way I appreciated the character refining moments that brought me to where I am in the present.

Physically I’m sitting in an internet cafe at almost 2am in Guangzhou which is just outside of Hong Kong on the mainland China side. I’m here with about 50 other people probably half my age who are watching movies, chatting or playing video games. I got to GZ on Monday night and joined up with some NewSong people who also came out from LA, they got here on Sunday and of course, I couldn’t be here to greet them. I finally caught up with them though just in time for the good stuff. They had to adjust to the culture shock, extreme weather and time change anyways…

Tuesday morning we left bright and early since we had an appointment to tour a toy factory just outside the city. We drove for an hour or so through the City which by itself is transitioning itself from the historical port city of Canton to the present day vibrant city of Guangzhou. There are three main cities which are called gateways into China. Beijing and Shanghai are two and GZ is the other and called the Gateway to Southern China. It’s a city with skyscrapers being built as far as the eye can see with a growing population of 10-15 million people rivaling any major city in the world. It definitely is a bit more countryish than it’s big brothers BJ and SH. But it’s a city on the move because of it’s proximity to HK (only an hour or so) and it’s bustling production and export trades.

So Tuesday morning, we went out to a toy factory where I’ll do my best to explain what we saw. I’m having trouble uploading pictures so come back to see what I’m talking about. All things considered, GZ is lucky to have some freedoms not allowed in other parts of China. For one, Ch-tianity is relatively open here to my surprise. A good example that really opened my eyes was this particular toy factory. I’ll start my observations with a contrasting experience that my friend just had. He is travelling on his own personal journey in Eastern Europe and just went to Auschwitz, the notorious and horrific concentration camp of WWII. He stood on the same grounds and saw the personal belongings of children and adults who were senselessly killed by the thousand in the gas chambers. He explained that he couldn’t imagine how one person or a group of people could inhumanely murder so many within such a short period of time. And how to this day those horrors still bring a person to their knees, as well they should. My experience yesterday at the toy factory was not one of death, despair and loss, but one of abundant life, hope and promise.

Our van pulled up and we walked to the front gate of the security check in gate amazed by the sheer size of the massive toy factory compound. On the way in, we passed 6 story dormitories and ordinary looking office buildings and warehouses. From the outside it looked like any other business that looked like they were successful and doing something right. The company called ICX (of course not the real name) is one of the largest toy factories in the world with over 30,000 employees spread across China and is even listed on the NYSE. We visited the main factory today which has 10,000 employees and a sprawling compound.

The CEO and founder originally was based in Hong Kong where all the other toy factories were located but he made the move to China 11 years ago. He was an Australian-Chinese and more importantly a Chr-tian. He was in HK living out the the freedom of his faith and he brought those same values to his new factory on the mainland. In his mid-forties, he quit his full-time job to go to seminary school and became a pastr in HK. He remains as a board member I think and still has a lot of influence within the company. His son now runs the company though but his initial work still remains.

We met and were led on a tour by one of the senior factory managers. His name was James (not his real name, LOL!)  and he was the Director of HR. He is a C-tian also and he says the factory also employs about 1,000 other like minded people. He greeted us is a massive conference room and we were briefed on the history of the company and then we got a chance to pry with him before he led us around.  We weren’t allowed access to the assembly lines for trade secrecy protection, now that would have been cool to see. =(

Anyways, this factory has contracts with all the major toy brands and we got to see the factory showroom. I couldn’t believe all the famous toys that were on display. There was everything that every little kid (and adults) play with all around the world. Some names that stood out were toys by Hasbro, Leap Frog, Mattell, Fisher Price and others I took pictures of but can’t remember now. There were Star Wars toys, barbie dolls, cars, robots, action figures and everything else. Apparently they do EVERYTHING! The cheap “Made in China” toys are left to one of the smaller 4,000 toy factories in the area. What sets this factory apart is how they treat their workers and the values that the company was founded on. Of course, their migrant workers come from small villages throughout China and are the mostly uneducated, skilless and jobless young people in search of a good salary to live on and also to send back home. Sadly the monthly salary is around the 700RMB range which is about $100 USD a month. And that’s working full-time. Since it still is a business they are limited to the salary that they can pay which is somewhat standard in the industry but the factory offers so much more.

We visited a dancing hall where they give dance lessons and allow young people to have exercise classes and social hangout times. Most of the workers are in their late teens or early 20’s and sometimes even into their 30’s. There is also a fully stocked library with magazines, newspapers and books with lots of clean tables and sitting areas. There were also computer rooms and classrooms where they have english lessons and night classes. A counseling hotline was set-up for people who just needed to talk to someone about work or personal issues. There was a medical clinic onsite too with a nurse. The company even has an emergency loan program just in case somebody needs quick cash for medical emergencies for their families back home since it’s hard to have substantial savings readily available. They even helped establish a youth center in town which I also went to see and am touring with the center’s founders and staff. (I’ll save that incredible story for next time.) This was everything but what I had envisioned for the typical sweatshop factory that I hear so much of. Believe me they still exist but at least not here. The toy factory didn’t have to provide all of these extra services but they did thanks to the founder and to a vision. 

 The factory deals with its own issues of a high turnover rate (about 6,000 people a year) though more related to the industry they’re in. All the major factories struggle with a high turnover since they don’t let people work overtime even at the employees request. Often people want to work 15 hours a day so they can earn more money quickly but the company has to abide by strict International Labor laws an US practices since it has a number of high-profile customers. Workers often go to other companies where they can work more or to other industries where the pay is better (like the auto industry). So the factory becomes a landing ground for many who work and then move on thinking that life is better somewhere else. Maybe they leave and realized how good they had it here.

Ch-tian values and principles are visibly evident throughout the facility. What stuck me the most was that the dormitory buildings are each named for one of the fruits of the spirit. In big Chinese letters on each building are the characters for “Peace, Love, Hope, Joy, etc….” The local gov people don’t have a clue why they are named what they are, but we know… =)

Also on the nicer building where the management lives are the characters for all to see… “reconciliation, abundance, truth.” In the main worker’s cafeteria are the words for “integrity and confidence.”  The founder believed that you can still have high morals and ethics and still be successful and not have to cut corners or treat your employees without dignity and respect. Although new employees may not stay, the seed has been planted and they have been exposed to other believers and will take that to their next job and who knows what can happen next. In that way alone, the factory is doing it’s part.

The factory is leading an organization called TCF (Toys C-tian Fellowsip) which started with 9 factories 4 years ago and now includes about 100 factories as members. There is no secret that it has grown so fast as His hand is evidently upon them. I was overwhelmed to personally see the difference one man can make in the lives of so many through the abundant love for His people. So the next time you see a toy Made in China, maybe it came from this special factory where individuals are celebrated and lives are changed. Look for the pictures of the toys that I’ll post and tell me if you have one… =))).

 

July 17, 2007

What a day…

Beneath all the glitz and glamour of impressive newly built high-rise condos, office buildings and shopping areas lies a system of governmental controls that simply boggles the mind. Joyce and I met up this morning to go about getting my passport replaced. She warned me what to expect and that even she had to mentally and spiritually prepare herself for the task before us. Whatever happened this would be a great learning experience to see the inner workings of the Chinese way of doing things.

The US Embassy website and Chinese Public Security Bureau (PSB) said to go the PSB office and file a report of a lost passport. We showed up there when they opened at 8:30am and went to the information officer at Window #28. She directed us to another counter across the room. When we got to that person, she said that we had to go back to Window #38. We explained that we just got sent from there but it was no use explaining any further. Back to window #38, then the lady says we have to go to the Foreign Disputes counter but we can see that no one was there. The lady says just go wait there and someone will show up. When? we ask.  The lady didn’t know… okaaayyy.

 So after 30 minutes or so a guy shows up and then says he can’t do anything and that we need to go to the local police station where the passport was lost to file the report. Okaaayyyy. Not a wasted trip yet, at least we got some information.

After a subway ride later, we were hopeful that possibly someone had turned the passport in there. This helped with keeping a positive outlook. Miracles happen. At the police station the desk lady filled out a report but said that she needed to get it stamped to make it official. But she had to find the person to do the stamp but she couldn’t leave her spot and she told us to wait. For how long though? She wouldn’t say. There is no real sense of urgency or customer service here for sure. There is a delicate balance of being a pain in the ass for her and then risking her getting completely pissed off and not wanting to help us at all. So we waited. Eventually another lady came down and got us our stamp. She then said we need to take that report to the local police administrative office to get a Confirmation letter that we filed a report. Okaayyy…

A taxi ride later, we were driving for longer than we had thought the ride would take but didn’t question anything since he said he knew where to take us. This is where it got interesting. Traffic was merging into one lane and our taxi and the one next to us were inching towards the same space with neither driver giving up their ground. My driver was getting miffed about the other driver and started shouting at the other driver who eventually got in front of us.

When traffic opened up again, our driver did a classic cut-off manuever to give the other driver a what’s up message. The other taxi driver didn’t appreciate that and later he pinned us against the median with his taxi and came over to the driver’s window and started screaming something. Our driver rolled down his window and shouted back. Keep in mind, we’re sitting in the back while these guys are about to kill each other. Uhh excuse me, fellas I don’t have time for this, I got important stuff to do. Eventually the other driver gets back in his car and we drive off. We then ask where we were going and our driver had mistaken our request and we headed back to where we came from. At this point, the driver is now totally fired up and is driving way crazier than driver’s usually do. Taxi drivers in BJ aren’t normally safe drivers anyways but this guy cranked it up a few notches after his encounter with the other drivers. I wondered how long these guys can drive these crazy streets day after day and I think this guy was about to blow.

We get to the Admin office, showed the officer inside the report and he said that we would have to wait 3 days after the initial report is filed before he can write a Confirmation letter. What? I explained that I neeeded to be in GZ days ago and I can’t wait 3 more days. Eventually he did us a favor and gave us the letter which was key to take to the US Embassy. Okay, now we’re getting somewhere. Off to the US Embassy and American soil!

Joyce left and went to work and now I’m at the Embassy compound which is shared with a few other countries and have to get into the outer gates first by showing my copy of my old passport.. then I had to pass through another metal detector and guard to get into the US Embassy compund. The Chinese guards spoke English and were very polite and pointed me in the right direction to the passport office. It was like a safe haven to escape from the craziness of the outside world hahah. It was greener, quieter and I actually saw other americans walking around. There even was a Starbucks… how nice.

I get to the American Services office building and have to go through a series of locked glass doors with a US Marine behind thick glass asking to see my ID. He let me through the first door, checked my ID and then let me through the 2nd door.

I get to the passport window at 12:03 and see a sign that says closed and will reopen at 2pm. Arhghh! I ask a nearby guy talking to someone if there is anybody that I can see since I just got there and he said he’ll see what he can do and went behind more locked doors. Then another very nice lady came out and helped me, said everything was going to be fine, gave me some forms and told me to have lunch and come back at 2pm and she can process the paperwork and I could get a new passport that afternoon. Sweet!

I walked around some, went out of the compund to get lunch and then hung out around there. While I was sitting somewhere on the street, an older Chinese local lady who was also sitting there earlier, came up to me and we started chatting. Well not really since I don’t speak Chinese well. I told her I was waiting for the embassy to open up again. She said America was good. I picked up some peaches from a street vendor earlier and had one left so I offered it to her. Gotta do my part and keep up the US-Sino relations. =)

At 2pm, I go back through the security checks, process my paperwork and waited another hour for a new passport. Sweet… more progress and I’m feeling good. Now I have to go back to the PSB.

Another subway ride later to the PSB, it’s crazier than in the morning and the visa guy says Visas will take 5 days. I tried my best to get him to say otherwise but he wouldn’t budge… I don’t have 5 days so I leave. On the train back to Wall Street, I think that I have my passport I can get on the plane at least. So why not fly to GZ and obtain a visa there or just wait till I get back to BJ to apply for a visa.  Both are not great ideas but I don’t have a lot of options.

On the Confirmation letter, there is a warning written in Chinese and translated in English on the form that says:

“… a Chinese Visa should be applied immediately to the Public Security Bureau in which the embassy or general consulate is located. Those who have over extended will be punished by chinese police organs.”

What??? police organs? Is going to GZ risking going to jail for Brokeback action?

I quickly grabbed my already packed bags that I kept ready since I knew I could be going to the airport at any minute. I get to the airport and took the next flight out. After a few subway rides, crazy taxi rides, a 3 hour flight and then a 1 hour taxi ride. I was glad to see my NewSong friends and glad to be here in GZ.  What a day… let’s see what tomorrow brings.

 

July 15, 2007

Accepted

Last night exhausted after looking for my passport and writing to you for prayer, Michael and I went out to dinner. He was supposed to go out earlier with somebody but had a change of plans so we went out to a local Chinese place. We ordered some tasty dishes and some beers and just hung out talking till the restaurant closed on us. We really got a chance to talk about a lot of stuff and bond in a way that made me glad that I wasn’t able to leave. Michael is not a Christian so I think my staying with him is not an accident either. I shared more about why I am in BJ and what my life was like back in the States and the friends that I had. We talked about typical guy stuff like work and of course, women. The conclusion we came to was that women are the same all around the world. Women, don’t take offense, that’s not a bad thing. =)

This morning I woke up, spent some time with God and then looked through my stuff again with fresh eyes to see if I somehow overlooked my passport. No luck. I kept thinking why couldn’t I have been more careful, why didn’t I put it somewhere else, I messed up. I let the team down.  

I went back to some places where I was at on Saturday just to make sure nobody turned it in… I went back to Grandma’s Kitchen where Joyce, Mona, Michael and I had breakfast. They serve American breakfasts so I recommended Michael try the chicken fried steak since he never had it before. Of course, he loved it and gained a few pounds in the process.  I had the pancakes which were so-so, the maple syrup was watery and not too sweet and I began to miss Dupar’s… next time I’ll try the omlettes or Chicken Fried steak which were a lot better.

I also went back to Schlotzky’s where I had lunch… yes, it’s the same sandwich place as in the US! Tastes the same too!  No luck there either. So for those of you who can’t eat Chinese food 24/7, no worries they got all kinds of options in Beijing now. =)

There was nothing else I could do so I went to BICF (BJ International Christian Fellowship) to spend some time in worship. I heard about BICF before but I hadn’t been there yet, till today. It’s the largest church for expats. Joyce and I took a taxi to BICF. We pulled up to the front and I immediately saw all kinds of people from all nationalities and ages, young and old, walking to and from. Children were waiting with their parents and others were just hanging around. The next thing I saw were signs that said that you need to have a foreign ID to enter. I flashed my CA DL as I was greeted and received a program.

Once inside the lobby, I spent some time checkin out all the different types of people and Joyce introduced me to someone. I then went to the welcome table where I was kindly greeted by a Chinese woman who spoke with a Hong Kong or Singaporean/ Malaysian accent.

The sanctuary was huge with stadium style seating and it looked like any large church in the US. The difference was that this was truly a multi-cultural church like no other. The congregation truly represented the World and His love for all of His people. There were people from everywhere! Nigeria, Kenya, Australia, Phillipines, Malaysia, Indonesia, Korea and that’s just the people sitting around me. The moderator struck a chord with me when he said that we’re all in Beijing for a specific purpose that God intended for us to follow and that we were not there by accident. Out of all of the places on the planet to be, we were all sitting in Beijing worshipping Him. Yes, I believed so.

The opening worship songs were all familiar to me and the contemporary style band was awesome… the coolest part was that there was a “worship art” woman sketching/ painting on big sheets of white paper during the songs. She sketched out various Christian images like a dove or person bowing while the band played. That was totally cool.

I went to service not knowing what to expect other than to spend some time before him,  pray and receive some direction as what to do next. The first song was the upbeat “Oh Happy Day, Happy Day… it’s a glorious day in your presence”. It made me feel good to be at church. It lifted my spirits giving me some security and hope… The worship leader who was from England would pray in between songs that God’s hands would rest on us as we come before him out of our desperation.  That sounds like me…

He said that some of us may have experienced tough things this week, but that in the hardest of circumstances we would see his hand at work and his presence felt. Then he sang “I Have a Maker.” The lyrics rang in my heart… “I have a maker, he knows my name, he knows my every thought, he sees each tear that falls and hears me when I call.”

I prayed, I questioned, I shouted to God, I felt lost, I felt weak, I felt helpless. I stuggled to remain strong. I literally felt like I lost my identity when I lost my passport. I can’t get on a plane. I can’t even check into a hotel. I’m not free. I can’t hide behind my blue shield that made me special anymore. I looked around and saw the nations in worship and I just lost it… and completely broke down in tears.

The sermon topic was The Search for Significance. The pastor spoke about Adam and Eve and how he covered himself up and hid in the presence of God. He went on to talk about all the ways how we cover ourselves up today. We search for significance and use our physical appearance, clothes, education, career, money, possessions, etc for cover. We cover our weaknesses so as not to be rejected by others and to cover up the sins in our lives. We just want people to like us so we base our sense of worth by getting their approval and try to be just like them.

This last week this all played out to the max… being in a foreign country magnifies everything about me for all to see and to be judged. I’ve been trying to fit in, gain people’s acceptance, and most of all be liked. I’ve led out of my strengths playing games, leading programs, making new friends, impressing people and just being the center of attention at times. All to much praise and well intentioned comments.

The pastor went on to say that if I base my value on people to say I’m ok, it’s just borrowed and only good for today. All these things ultimately fall away. My acceptance from God should be enough for me since he accepts me for who I am. The church of JC is a place where I can come with my fears, anxieties, weaknesses, faults and mistakes and find a path that leads to God. Significance should come from God which never fades. I can rest and not have to fight for it.

I can rest in the presence of God.

I can rejoice in the presence of God.

I can find life in the presence of God.

So today I looked for God in Beijing and I found him.

911!

brothers and sisters,
Thank you very much for all your supportive emails in response to my China update this morning. My heart is filled knowing that you are there alongside me. I don’t know where to begin but I seriously am in need of your praeyer support. I went to the airport this afternoon to fly to GZ to begin my M trips and be a part of what He is already doing. I went to look for my passport and didn’t have it! I looked everywhere for it but it didn’t turn up. I’m not able to fly anywhere without a passport so I had to take a taxi back to the Wall Street center to look again there. I praed and praed in the taxi that his angls would protect my passport and I would be able to continue on my journey. This week I kept my clothes in a storage room at WS until I get my own place. I was moving my stuff in and out of boxes trying to get ready for my trip this afternoon so I thought there was a chance that it somehow was there.
Joyce and I looked everywhere and called places and people where I had been but it didn’t turn up. I was reminded that this is a battle and I can not be anything, do anything or go anywhere without Him. I am not freaked out missing my passport and am remarkably calm with all this. There is nothing I can do to make this situation any better except to take a deep breathe and prae that light overcomes the darkness.
If anything, my resolve is heightened now and my strength is more focused on what is to be done here and why I am here. This comes at such a time where I have been filled with His presence in my interactions with the students and I was looking forward to the next month. I know there is a spirtual battle going on bigger than me. If I don’t find my passport, prae that all goes smoothly for me since I have to go to the local security bureau to report my passport lost tomorrow and then go to the US Embassy on Monday for another passport and then get another visa from the China embassy. Then I have to reconnect with the team in GZ ASAP. I’ll keep you posted….
Knocked down but not out of the fight.
James

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July 14, 2007

I was sitting with friends tonight over dinner and I was just saying how it didn’t seem like I just got here this week. It’s strange, but other than the jet lag and living out of a box for now, I feel like I’ve already adjusted to being here. Maybe I’m still in vacation mode but life in Beijing is a lot of fun and a 100x more rewarding.

I dropped by the Center this afternoon to prepare for the big party tonight (see below). I was asked at the very last minute to cover an English class for VIP students who want extra opportunities to study English. The topic was “10 things that makes a business successful.”  I had 5 students in the class and we started talking about typical things that make a good business but a few minutes into our discussion, I thought it would be more fun and interesting for them to talk about a real life example. I just went to a popular Starbucks yesterday to hang out so I had them talk about why they think Starbucks is so succesful as a world-wide company with a huge growing influence in China. We talked for an hour about everything like the smiley, friendly service, convenient locations, clean and comfortable seating areas, appearance, music, quality product, affordability, staff training, logo, … etc. I think the students got so much out of it and I made a good connection with them.  That was fun to bring in my previous experiences and observations and share that with the younger guys.

There is so much pressure on the young generation these days since they typically are the only child with parents who are busy working to make money. Money is not necesarily the problem since a lot of the WS Students have the money. Sometimes they just need a good role model and somebody older who can goof around with them and give them the right encouragement. That’s where I come in. More about this later in my story about Jarod.

Tonight was the big Wall Street Student Social gathering. This is the first time a big event was held like this for the school. Most of the time, the students just gather at the center to meet and learn English, but seldom do they get out and have fun together through extracurricular activities.  Joyce had an idea to rent out a big banquet room at a nearby hotel and gather the students to create a mid-size gathering where people can make new friends, bring old ones and just simply have fun in a healthy “English speaking” environment.

The hotel room cost was 3,000 RMB so we were to charge 30RMB ($4) for each attendee to help cover costs since there is no budget for such programs from the corporate school. The  door charge covered the program and soda and water. Since this was the first event of its kind, there was no way to tell just how many students would come out. It was a huge turnout with over 100 people in attendance!  Wow, the room was buzzing… It was great that we recovered our costs and had a huge success.

Like in the Quad, I helped MC and led ice breaker games for tonight and just had a great time. The students got really into it and just had a great time. You can just sense the need for something like this in this point in their lives. I can honestly say they probably have not quite experienced anything like this and are so thirsty for more connections with people.

For the games, we started off with a Scavenger Hunt game to collect items that they had on them already, we played the Hong Kong Phooey game (a hilarious rock, paper, scissors variation. Thanks Teresa!), and a human bingo game which went better than I could have expected. They got so into it and like typical industrious students they didn’t just want to stop at one Bingo line, some filled their whole sheet with names. Of course, we simply did these same games at NewSong and I just brought them here to China but people loved them! We also did Karaoke American Idol, had Salsa lessons, and even Elvis paid a visit. There was so much going on tonight, but still the students wanted more when we finished. For such a last minute gathering, it was hugely successful!

So then after the party, Joyce, Jarod (who I met that night) and I went to a new shopping and eating area for an evening snack. It’s simply called The Place that just opened up recently and it is simply amazing. It’s like Downtown Las Vegas without the casinos and even has an overhead video light display. Supposedly it’s the biggest and best of it’s kind in the world. I agree that it’s better than Vegas. You have to see this for yourself…

Jarod is cool in that he just started learning English recently and is quite a natural disciplined learner. He already is quite proficient at communicating his thoughts in English. He’s 24 and is a professional singer. He does opera and leads a group which is the young chinese version of the 4 Tenors. He does TV gigs and travels around doing shows. He’s such an awesome guy with a great head on his shoulders and has even a bigger heart. Jarod said something to me that affirmed me just doing what I’m doing here in Beijing. He said that he feels comfortable around me and likes “my style.”  I have a manly, strong personality and appearance but a soft and friendly heart which he admired. I see him as a younger brother and friend who I wouldn’t mind hanging out with more.

Tomorrow I leave for Guangzhou for two weeks and then to Wenzhou for two weeks so I may not be posting a lot. Keep in mind that security is getting pretty tight here and all e-mails are monitored so try not to get me thrown in jail or put on some most wanted list… I’m joking but not really, you know? =)

 

July 13, 2007

Last night I had dinner with Joyce and her trainer friend Phoenix. She is the first girl that can absolutely kick my ass. Phoenix is a student at Wall Street too. We went to an old traditional part of Beijing with small streets and hutongs (courtyard style buildings). Our dinner for the three of us cost 40 RMB (less than $6). We had a diced chicken dish, 4 very tasty vegetable dishes, 3 bowls of rice and two bottled waters. The small restaurant only had 5 tables and the family probably lived in the back. A little bit about Phoenix, she has a great story. She won the Ms. Beijing Fitness competition a few years ago and is a physical trainer at a few local gyms. She’s trying to make it to the USA to compete someday. She’s an instructor for hot yoga, pilates, and samba in addition to the physical trainer stuff. I was supposed to take her hot yoga class yesterday but my body is in no shape to be working out quite yet so I decided to take a rain check at the last minute. Besides I was in no hurry to go into a room where it’s even hotter than the wet sauna that’s outside! I told her I’d be lying motionless in the back trying not to faint. She told me that there were 28 students in the class with only one guy yesterday. I’ll definitely have to try to make it to the next class. =).


July 13, 2007

Today I slept in… still fighting the jet lag. I’m waking up at 5am and feel wide awake. By the afternoon I’m ready for a nap. I’m staying with a local BJ’er friend named Michael. He’s really cool. I did my part to keep US-China relations safe for now… I showed him how to download US songs from a service that I use back home. It still works here! Check it out www.musicetc.com.

Speaking of downloads, a student from Wall Street gave me a bootleg copy of the Transformers movie he downloaded from the internet. He was watching it on his laptop and I asked about it. I explained it just came out in the US a couple of weeks ago…. wow, these guys are quick. It’s in some funky format so I haven’t been able to open it on my computer. I’ll have to ask him about the software next time.

 The students are great to hang out with and chat with. Joyce says that I’m really good at making friends and they’re feeling comfortable having me around already. I’m usually just hanging out at the Center since it’s air conditioned and it beats being outside in the energy sapping heat.

Yesterday Jane, one of the students, went with me to open a Bank of China account and get an ATM card. People told me to expect to be there for a few hours and suggested that I have a local friend go with me to help translate. By divine intervention I asked the right person to help! She said no problem, she had a special VIP card so we wouldn’t have to wait in line. We went to the bank lobby, there was the expected line and then Jane flashed her card to a lady and then the lady took us up the building elevator to a nicely decorated and well furnished room on the 3rd floor. The guy there immediately helped us and then he walked us back down to a teller window where everybody else was at and went straight to the front of the line. Jane helped me fill out all the forms which were in Chinese and then the teller got me all set up with my papers and new ATM card. I was out of there in 30 minutes. Sweeet!

Our next task was to get my cell phone account set up with China Mobile. That process wasn’t so bad either… they have a list of all available phone numbers and picking the “right” number is an art in itself. Jane looked at all the numbers and decided that 1391-138-0093 was the best one for me. Apparently, 3’s, 8’s and 9’s are good. 3’s is good since it means “going up”, like going to meet the big guy upstairs. 8’s are good luck in Chinise and 9 is historically the Emperor’s number. 4’s are to be avoided like the plague since the word for “death” sounds very close to the word for “four.”  The monthly fee is 99RMB for 280 minutes (about $13).

Day 1

Joyce met me at the airport to welcome me to Beijing. My flight arrived at 4:30am! I slept for the first 7 hours and then kind was in and out of sleep for the next 4-5 hours. It was a pretty uneventful flight so overall it was a good trip and I was excited to be in Beijing. As we were in the taxi cab heading into the city, I still couldn’t believe that I was actually here. It was still early in the morning around 5:30am so the city was not quite in full swing of the hustle and bustle of big city life.

We first dropped off my luggage at the Wall Street English Center where Joyce is the Director and then she treated me to an incredible breakfast at the China World Hotel. The hotel is one of the few 6 star hotels in the City and is in the same building as Wall Street. We talked about how quickly Beijing is changing even since I was there 7 months ago. Since today was my first day here as a “resident”, she wanted to splurge and treat me to a nice place to commemmorate the occasion. There will be plenty of days to come where I’ll get the traditional do-jan (soy bean milk) and dumplings for 50cents.

After breakfast, we went back to the center where we met up with a group that was visiting from Knoxville, Tennessee. They already had been in BJ for a few days sightseeing. The group was really nice and I told them that I literally arrived a few hours ago… together we were going to be guests of a special Service Olympic English competition that Wall Street was invited to partner with. The event was created to promote hospitality, service and being good will ambassadors to the world for the upcoming Olympics. There were 8 service groups of three people each represented from various hotels, restaurants and businesses in the Central Business District (CBD) area where Wall Street is. I was helping Joyce and the organizers put together the actual programming from back home in the “States.”  Joyce thought that I would be a natural MC since I told her about all my Quad, NLC and Frontline  experiences. So 4 hours off the plane… I had a microphone in hand in front of the crowd, welcoming people, talking about the importance of great hospitality and then doing my thing.  Of course, the t-shirt (Size L) that they gave me to wear was about 3 sizes too small! Seems like I’m an XXL size in a land of MUCH skinnier people. There was no way to cover up the burger, rib, steaks, and ice creams that I’ve been feasting on for the last month. LOL!

I led the role play situations where I asked the different team to respond to typical questions they might here from visitors next year. Like “where can I get a traditional BJ meal?”, “Where is the 1st place I should visit since I’m new to BJ?”, etc.. Then I led a group competition game which was more of a fun, wacky game that everybody got involved in for laughs… I had such a great time MC-ing, leading the games, and meeting people. This is exactly what I was made to do! It’s good to know that my experiences back at home have a place here in BJ. A cool bonus was that the local BJ news station and newspaper were there to cover the story.  =)

Later that afternoon, I was still tired from the flight so I went to get a 2 hour foot and body massage at a nearby spa. What a way to spend an afternoon and it only cost 170 RMB (about $22).

In the beginning…

This will be my first blog entry of the beginning of a journey where the exact ending isn’t quite known yet, well at least by me. I’m sitting at LAX Gate 28 waiting to board an Air China flight to Beijing which departs at 1:40am. I still can’t believe that I’m about to fly half way around the world for this next chapter of my life. I often thought of this moment and wondered how I would feel at the beginning of such a journey. How am I feeling? For the last week or two I’ve been staying up to pack till 3am and getting up at 8am each day just to get my stuff together and meet up with people. So most of all I’m TIRED!

The past year has been spent just trying to figure out whether I was to go to China or not. There was a lot at stake and the notion of leaving my job, my family, my friends and my comfortable life in OC was a tough one. That decision was made with a resounding “Yes” in the middle of May with plans to end work on June 21st and head out to China on July 9th. Once the actual dates were set, I began telling my friends and co-workers of my plan. Overall, I felt a complete peace with myself and felt like a huge weight was lifted off of my shoulders.  Of course I’m scared and apprehensive, but I just knew that this was the right decision and something I needed to do for reasons too many to list them here right now. I’ll expand on this some more when I’m not as tired and have a little more time, but mainly I believe that there is a specific path that God has put me on. Life for me means that I need to follow my dreams and passions regardless of how illogical it all sounds, to live each day to its fullest and to do the things that I was gifted at doing and be true to myself and my strengths.  It will also be an opportunity to explore my curiosities and to take on new challenges while going on this self discovery process. On Jan 12th I had my LASIK eye surgery, I prayed that God would literally give me new eyes to see and to view the world and things in myself that I wasn’t able to see before. I wanted to not only see my own imperfections but also to clearly see my strengths and then to find opportunities to use those giftings.

Over the past month I have been overwhelmed with the outpouring of love and friendship from so many people that I have had the blessing to have known. Through this process I realized how important relationships are to me and the intentionality of life that goes along with those connections.  I have grown to appreciate all the great people that are in my life. That realization in itself is huge for me.  5 years or so ago, while relationships and connections were still a big part of my life, those relationships were more of a passing concept than ones that I truly understood or treasured. I was more concerned with getting things done, being busy, focusing on results, being friends of all but not really knowing or even desiring intimate friendships. A friend once asked me who my best friend was and I responded that I didn’t really have one. I had good friends, ones that I have known for years and who I shared my life with at specific times, but no one really who I would call regularly to just talk and share my junk. I guess what “bothered” her more was that it didn’t even seem to faze me and that it wasn’t something I even wanted for myself. Needless to say, my views in that area are different now.

Even though I had so many logistical things to do in the last month that goes with moving to a different country, what I really wanted to do was reconnect with my friends over endless breakfasts, lunches, coffees, dinners, desserts and everything in between. I’ve had great conversations with people, received many words of encouragement and affirmation, told people how much they mean to me and have been prayed for by many.  Many of those times ended up with tears welling in my eyes and voice cracking with emotion.  

The emotional process of moving was something that I wasn’t completed prepared to do either. It was so much more than a logistical packing of boxes. I literally had to sort through my life keeping the things that mattered, discarding the junk, reliving the memories while celebrating the highs and lows and to understand that those experiences have made me into who I am today. The last boxes were packed and the start of a new beginning or perhaps just a continuation of sorts was starting to take shape.

My last day today was spent doing last minute trips to Goodwill to donate old suits and clothes that I wouldn’t be needing anymore and to buy last minute things. I cleaned my condo for my brother who will be moving in next week. I went to In-n-Out and had a Double Double for lunch since it would be one of the pleasures that I won’t be having for awhile. My parents and brother came over to hang out with me and helped me finish more packing and then we went to dinner. They asked where I wanted to go for a “last meal” and all I could think of was to have another hamburger and end the meal with one of my favorite desserts, a Kona Mudpie! So we went to Islands. =) I probably could get good burgers in China but I didn’t want to take any chances. LOL! After dinner we went back to my place where I said my goodbyes to my parents, “turned over the keys” to my place and left last minute instructions for my brother. Then before I knew it, it was time for my brother to drive me to the airport. The ride on the 105 was a bit surreal since I was physically and emotionally exhausted and it still didn’t completely sink in yet that I was leaving to go live in Beijing. So now it brings me back to the present, it’s time for me to board my plane where I look forward to 12 hours of sleep and saying hello to a journey of a lifetime.

How I left it with people was that it wasn’t so much of saying good-byes forever but it was more like “I’ll be seeing you again soon.” Take care and I’ll send my next post from my new home. =)
 


Friday, April 20, 2007

Another Race Report from a Friend of William's


This story is crazy, the guy gets hurt, crawls, passes out, and doesn't remember a thing with only three miles to the finish. I found out that he signed up today for Ironman Arizona 2008 from William. Go get em Ryan!  ~James
 
Hey all,
    I've returned from Phoenix sporting a major sun-burn, a sprained ankle and a new appreciation for the race called Ironman. Below is my race report from IM (with special thanks to Paul Shirley for the "train of thought" idea), so you can see exactly what was going through my head. Hopefully it inspires some of you to undertake this event, despite what happened to me it truly is one of the coolest things you can be a part of, and I'm looking forward to my next shot at it.

Pre-Race
4:46 am  Wake up, pack lightly and head towards Tempe. Just another day of training...it's what I keep telling myself
5:01 am  Pull into parking lot, attempt to look cool and confident heading to check in.
5:09 am  Realize my shirt is inside out. So much for cool and confident.
5:39 am  Get body-marked by an older woman who seems more interested in the older man behind me then writing my # on my body. Ahh love..
6:10 am Pull on wetsuit and race suit, give my girlfriend a good luck hug and head down to the dock
6:24 am The guy next to me is hyperventilating like mad, and keeps repeating "pain is only temporary".
6:25 am  Move away from "Pain is only temporary" gentlemen, as he's starting to scare me

Swim
6:32 am  Pro athletes enter water and begin swimming towards docks
6:41 am The other 2000 of us begin entering the water. I swim out and head for the start line.
6:45 am An actual cannon is fired, and the pros start. Looking around, I feel rather like I'm in a large group of lemmings about to run off a cliff. 15 minutes to go.
6:47 am "Pain is only temporary", says the swimmer behind me. Do tell.
7:00 am Cannon fires, and off we go.
7:04 am Get punched in the head by a guy in a red wetsuit swimming like he's drunk. It's fairly crowded up at the front, so I let it go.
7:23 am This isn't so bad just another 2.4 mile swim.
7:26 am Get run over by same guy in red wetsuit. Well, it's still pretty crowded....
7:43 am Cruising along with a pack of swimmers, it dawns on me that I'm going to be racing for 10 more hours. Yow.
7:49 am Get elbowed by....yep...red wetsuit guy.
7:56 am Get kicked by Red Wetsuit Man attempting to pass me. Begin formulating complicated plan of revenge against him, culminating with me force-feeding him a CO2 cartridge.
8:01 am Climb out of the water, head over to the tent for my bike gear. A 1 hour swim, and I feel pretty good about things. That went pretty well, all things considered.

Bike
8:10 am Head out onto Rio Salado for the first of 3 37 mile loops.
8:35 am Pass first aid station, where ASU fraternity manning the booth is dressed like superheros. "Spider-Man" from Delta Chi hands me an orange gatorade.
8:47 am Pass giant sign that says "Pain is only temporary" Honestly, I'm beginning to hate that cliche. I sip on some orange gatorade while pondering.
9:01 am Now out away from Phoenix, I'm following a plan of racing conservativly, in hopes of making up ground on the marathon. At least that's what I keep telling myself as people two decades my senior whiz by.
9:06 am Woman attempts to hand me a banana, but doesnt let go in time, muffing the exchange and causing the banana to go into the spokes of my wheel. Slime goes everywhere.
9:12 am At the turn around point on the bike, the wind picks up to the point where you're riding and feeling like you're going nowhere. Silently curse nature and continue on
9:35 am I really could use that banana right now.
9:56 am Lap 2 begins with a volunteer yelling that the wind is picking up. Hoping that the volunteer is drunk, I continue on
10:14 am I stop at the "Costumed Aid Station", hand my bike to a giant bumblebee ( I think...either that or a cheetah with wings) and make a pit stop. Two guys to my left are laughing hysterically about the wind. Not a good sign.
10:37 am Reach turnaround point for the second time, realize that the wind definitly has picked up.  Just beyond me is a guy laying on the road with his bike tangled under him. Hoping that doesn't end up being me, I continue on.
10:49 am A volunteer hands me more orange gatorade. By my count, that's the 3rd full size one I've downed
12:35 pm More orange gatorade and one final loop await. Of course we can hear the announcer mentioning that " The pros are on the run course"! Lucky jerks..
12:54 pm My arms are starting to get tired from being in an aero position this long. Picture holding your arms out in front of you like Frankenstein for about 6 hours and you get the idea.
1:01 pm Reach turnaround point, wind has increased another notch. Drink more orange gatorade.
1:24 pm Bananas and Power gel aren't the best tasting stuff normally, but right now they taste like a steak dinner. Or so I tell myself.
2:15 pm Final Aid station ahead is manned by a sorority from ASU. I knew there had to be something about that school I'd like.
2:16pm Sorority girl mistakes my grab for a water bottle, hands me another bottle of orange gatorade instead, then screams "Pain is only temporary". I rescind my earlier comment about ASU.
2:44 pm Round final turn, head into the transition area.Two things to take from this bike ride are that I'm not touching orange gatorade for the next 6 months, and I don't think I've ever been so happy to see the words "Dismount here" in all my life. As I get off the bike, a volunteer tells me that the winds were clocked at around 40mph. Awesome, we get the priveledge of racing an Ironman in a category 1 hurricane.

Run
2:50 pm Set out on the 3 loop run course, confidence high. I rested on the bike, and feel like this is in the bag.
2:58 pm 8:00 first mile, perfect pace. Another 4 hours of this and I'm an Ironman.
3:05 pm While attempting to pass a guy, I step on a rock. Wow, my ankle hurts.
3:06 pm Please God, let this only be a twisted ankle. "Pain is only temporary"
3:09 pm I'm pretty sure I sprained it, as the pain isn't fading. It's pretty much reduced me to a walk/hobble. Good thing I did this at mile 2, rather then...oh..mile 24 where I could've crawled into the finish.
3:15 pm My pace has been reduced to about 12:00 mile pace, and is getting worse. Damn.
3:20 pm I'm now at mile 2.5 and it hurts like crazy. I tell myself to at least make it to the TRISPORTS aid station (mile 10 or so) before quitting
4:21 pm Limp into the Trisports Aid station, and stagger into the back of a truck. My friend Matt puts ice on my ankle, and tries to cheer me up as we wait for the medics to come get me. Disappointedly I stare at the cieling. 16.2 miles and I would've made it.
4:55 pm As the medics pull up, I test my ankle. It hurts still, but if I walk on the inside of my foot, I can maybe coax some more out of it. Whether the ice has numbed it or not, I decide to push on. The medic shakes his head and promises to "catch me at the next aid station"
5:21 pm This isn't so bad, I'm at mile 12 now. 14.2 to go
5:25 pm Wow, my ankle really hurts now
6:37 pm If anyone's ever seen one of those movies where the guy heroically goes on after being injured, those movies do not show how much pain the hero actually goes through. Honestly, my ankle is a throbbing mess.
7:04 pm Pass through the TRISPORTS area on my final loop. Seton Clagget, the owner, lets everyone know that "This is one of the coolest things I've seen in a long time for Ironman" and they all cheer for me. That seriously makes my day. Honestly, what a great group of people.
7:07 pm Right Foot, Left Foot. Right foot, Left foot.
7:45 pm The sun's gone down, I've been going for 12.5 hours, and I've got 7 miles to go. Hang in there.
7:56 pm Pass another "Pain is temporary" sign and vow to kill whoever created that cliche
8:24 pm Great, my stomach's starting to knot up. Not good.
8:40 pm Mile 21 goes by, but my body is shaking. 5 miles left

At this point I don't really remember specifics. I made it about 2.5 miles more, collapsed twice, then went into shock and the medics were called to get me. Apparently I crawled some of it too, I don't really remember after that point. I completed all but the final 3 miles of it, and had I not sprained my ankle felt I would have finished. I'm proud for doing what I did and have no regrets, and look forward to next year's race in Tempe.

This time I'll watch for rocks.

Ryan
 
 


Eddie's Race Report

Eddie Narvaez you are an Ironman

 

Arizona Ironman ’07 Race Day:

I wake up at 4:00am, shower to wake up and eat a PB&J, vitamins, and some Hammer electrolytes and an endurance drink.  I get picked up and William, Jen, Jason and I arrive at the event and meet James.  We’re almost the first people there and head to the bikes to load the drink bottles, drop off our special needs bags, get body marked with our race #s, etc.

It’s now 6:00am, we’re putting on our wetsuits and we’re pretty quiet.  An ongoing line I would say was “Guys, I don’t talk when I’m nervous.”  What’s cool is that Jen (William’s girlfriend) is not racing and we’re now in an area that is only for participants, but because we got there so early, she had full access.  Another line I say is “Jen, you’re real smart, what are you doing with this guy?”  The four of us huddle and take turns saying a prayer, asking for strength and safety.  I cry like a baby and am embarrassed about it and try to hide it – I guess these guys now know I wish only the best for them.  It’s cool that these guys know each other from Newsong Church and I know William through work but we get along like brothers who don’t argue (except Jason and I argue how I should stop playing softball because of the chance of injury).

6:45am.  The pro’s took off and we are forced to get into the water and swim 200 yards to the start.  (When I first starting my Master’s swimming, I couldn’t swim 100 yards w/o gasping)  There’s no turning back now.  William, Jason and I swim to the front, why though? – the fast guys are supposed to line up up front and I’m not one of them.  We lose James among the 2066 swimmers.  The lake and bridges are lined with spectators and the scene is wild.  We hang on to the kayak the lifeguards are using so we can save energy.  My heart is going crazy.  I have never swam 2.4 miles non-stop before.

-- Swim 2.4 miles --

At 7:00am the gun goes off and it’s like a washing machine with bodies.  I got kicked, bumped, trampled and within 10 minutes my right goggle gets kicked and is filled with the Tempe Town Lake water, which the locals say “ewww, they swim in that?”  My right eye is stinging but I can’t stop.  The trick, they say, is to draft as much as possible, stay right behind a person in their wake.  I do this and we’re now a pack of about 3 people.  I’m no longer getting bumped and wonder how back I really am.  Am I bringing up the rear?  I look right (where I normally breath/look left) and EVERYONE is there.  Me and the other guys are WAY off course.  So I break away and swim back to the pack of swimmers.  They say that the 2.4 mile swim should be a warm up, yeah right.  But I actually felt that for the first time.  I just tried to sight buoys often instead of relying on others and I get into a groove.  I finally make it out of the water 1:36 hours later, which turned out to be 1770th place out of 2066 – told you swimming wasn’t my thing.  The volunteers then help strip my wetsuit off and my right calf cramps!  Funny, as I didn’t kick at all (another suggestion from triathletes – save your legs for later).  I’m getting scared as I head of over to T1 the Swim-to-Bike transition area.

I completely change out of my clothes into bike clothes (some people wear a tri suit which they wear under their wetsuit and right onto the bike and that saves time), lather on sunscreen (though I heard I missed out on some of the cute volunteer girls doing that for you  ).  It took me 9:25 minutes to get out of there.  I was a little worried because I cross the timing mat to start the bike ride and the clock said 9:56am and I thought that I was close to the 10:20 cut off time and I would be eliminated but I don’t think I was thinking clearly.  In any case, I see Carla and kids!  Say a quick hi, but again was worried about the DNF (Did Not Finish) and move on.

 

-- Bike 112 miles --

The bike ride is 3 loops of 37 miles.  Each loop has a long slight uphill, then downhill.  I set off and try to immediately eat a PB&J sandwich and down a Hammer Energy drink.  Eating on the bike ride (without stopping) and staying hydrated along with ensuring proper salt/electrolyte supplements are critical.  My plan is to eat a sandwich/supplements at each loop and stay hydrated with Gatorade/water the rest of the way.  The uphill was fast, ~20+mph so I felt like Lance, but then realized why.  There was a steady 20+mph tailwind, which on the way back downhill was a direct headwind.  You’d think I can go faster downhill, but I was limited to 10-12mph and I even switched to the smaller chainring (gear)!  I got scared again. 

I see William and he tells me Jason is up front (no surprise, nor does it surprise me that those guys are out of the water faster than me).  We talk for a bit riding side by side but you’re not supposed to do that.  I catch Jason at the turn of loop 1.  He’s got our OCTriClub uniform on but I don’t , I opted for a file bike uniform. 

I just tried to keep to the plan.  The only thing I would look at is heart rate on my Garmin watch.  I rarely flipped screens and looked at speed or distance because I knew I had a few more loops to go.  As I stated about eating on the bike w/o stopping, well some people pee on the bike w/o stopping, uh, I guess I’m not that hardcore.  I think how unfortunate the weather is treating us.  Some of the people who did this Ironman 3x in a row say that this wind added about an hour to our ride.  I’m unsure but I know it was hard for me, but I think how fortunate we are because just a few days before there was a wind storm and they shut down the airport, so I guess we’re fortunate.

7:02 hours later I was off the bike.  I did well and passed 344 people coming in 1426th place.  As it turned out Jason had 2 flats on the bike .  He’s one of the strongest on the bike between all of us. 

-- Run 26.2 miles --

It’s now around 4:00pm and it’s hard to believe that after about 9 hours of continual work, I have a full marathon in front of me and I’m not strong in the run (do you see a pattern of my weaknesses?)  Plus my arches are hurting me (note:  might need arch supports for my bike shoes).  The run start is electric.  I’m wearing my Team In Training tank top and our race bib has my name on it – so people are either yelling “Go Team!” or “Can’t you run any faster Eddie?” and the place is packed and I feel like a rock star.  ( I heard one guy yell “swim, bike run – not swim bike walk!)  I see William and then Jason in the first loop.  The run consists of three loops of almost 9 miles.  Half way through, I grab my special needs bag which I really needed – it had a long sleeve shirt because it gets cold for us slow folks and a couple packs of Reese’s Pieces – I love those things.  I was hoping to run a 6:00 marathon and did the first 2 loops in ~2:00 hours each.  I call Carla to tell her that I’m hoping for a 10:00pm best case finish and would just be fantastic to cross the finish w/ the kids as you see on TV, as I’m thinking at this point I will never ever do this again.  Carla tells me that William Instant Messages Carla (Yes, William has internet access on his phone while running the marathon and Carla was at the hotel on the computer) and before saying hi, he asked “Where’s Eddie?” and “I’m gonna catch Eddie then slow down.”  (William, if you’re reading this… :)  You see, the four of us had a bet that the fastest finisher gets a Ruths Cris dinner. 

The aid stations had water, gatorade, gels, cookies, pretzels, cola and chicken broth.  After the 2nd loop, I couldn’t eat anything solid.  I never tried the cola or chicken broth.  Incredibly I wasn’t cramping, I think the Lava Salt tablets James gave me did the trick – thanks James!  My heartrate was low, because I was walking much of the last loop and all of the last 4 miles, so now 10:30pm is my target.  I am in awe of those runners who can run so fast for so long – incredible.  Ultimately, I’ll have gotten passed by 320 people on the run.

William calls and says him, James and Jason are all together and whether I wanted to wait so we can all finish together.  I contemplated it, because we all started this together, but I just couldn’t make Carla and the kids wait any longer (I think she had it harder than I did as she had the kids by herself from Wednesday to Sunday, and didn’t get a medal or teeshirt for it), and plus, I wanted that Ruths Cris dinner ;) (FYI, I’ll never allow them to pay for it, but they don’t know that.)

A volunteer walked with me for a while and he was from San Diego and came up here just to volunteer.  I can’t say enough positive things about the volunteers – they were awesome, always encouraging and helpful.  I need to return the favor someday.

10:20pm, I finally make it to the last turn, and there’s Carla and the kids at the “chute” where I can pick them up.  I carry Macie and Jason and Jeremy were running with me – I called for them to stay at my side but the incredible crowd was screaming and going crazy, they couldn’t hear me.  The crowds hands out and the kids are high five-ing.  Jeremy sprinted home and I couldn’t keep up.  “Eddie Narvaez you are an Ironman!”  Never thought I’d hear those words or be able to complete such an event.

I finished in 15:26 hours.  It’s hard to believe I was exercising from 7:00am till 10:30pm.

Thanks for all the support from family and friends, God, the volunteers, spectators, my training buddies and especially my wife Carla for holding down the fort all this time.   I love you forever.  Here’s a little detail about the other Ironmen:

James:  http://www.xanga.com/ironcrossX   The most spiritual of the bunch and his integrity is above most I know.  He only started training with us recently and his will is incredible.  Probably mostly because of his example, and you Chris (RIP), you’ll know where I’ll be this Sunday – a long time coming. 

Jason:  http://www.xanga.com/kboy25  A very broad and experienced person, talented in many topics.  Is the most generous with tips and truly wants to see you through the finish.  I think he looks like Elmo (that’s a compliment).

William:  http://brcmboy.selectedhosting.com  I think if he doesn’t move to NY to be with Jennifer, he’s crazy.  But he is addicted to Triathlons and fitness and there’s no way I would have done this w/o him.  He doesn’t know the meaning of “can’t”.


 

Ofoto Race Pictures

Hi friends,

Thank you for following along and for all your encouraging support and prayers throughout this incredible journey. I hope that you found some inspiration through some of the pictures that you have seen here. As my friend Hailey reminded me recently, I hope each of us approaches each unbelievable challenge with an attitude of fun, gratefulness, awe and peace.  And that we each continue to be self-motivated, God-inspired, and loving persons who live each day to it's fullest. =)

"There are only two ways to live your life. One is as though nothing is a miracle. The other is as though everything is a miracle."

For final race day pictures:

http://www.kodakgallery.com/ShareLandingSignin.jsp?Uc=8zt4ao9l.93258okt&Uy=tlg9vv&Upost_signin=Slideshow.jsp%3Fmode%3Dfromshare&Ux=0

Wishing you all the best and God Bless,
Eddie, William, Jason and James

 



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